It's so easy for us to see when we are using the wrong board. It's so easy for us to see what needs to change or what we need to do differently in surfing, but in the rest of our lives we're equally quick to blame ourselves. What if you have always perfectly fit life all along, but you just needed to start believing it?
Movement and moving, stillness and chaos-the metaphor can be too simple, but life also can be too.
Aggressive surfing can be empowering, and teach us how to improve. Like confrontation, we often believe it is only negative, but that isn't the case!
What do surfing, manual labor, mental health, and mindfulness all have to do with each other? Read more to find out.
I found my greatest sustenance in the sea.
What better way to celebrate than in the ocean?
Remembering what we most value.
Reflective moments remind us of how far we have come.
Expectations aren't always helpful.