It's not often you get to participate in a world-history moment. This essay is a reflection on legacy, surfing, humanity, and the impact of Eddie Aikau on the surfing community.
I found my greatest sustenance in the sea.
If a surfer catches a wave, and no one is around to see it, was it really that exciting...and other inquiries into external validation.
A post dedicated to the woman who taught me stoke, perseverance, courage, and laughter. Thanks for being the person who has always supported me pursuing my dreams.
What better way to celebrate than in the ocean?
What happens when we hold too tightly?
Remembering what we most value.
Today's lesson: part of falling well is finding the strength to get back up.
Today's session was full of life lessons.