A surfing and creative writing blog dedicated to finding my stoke.
Life lessons learned from surfing, being in the ocean, wiping out, volunteering, being a female surfer, and a bunch of other random surfing related stuff.
I thought I would kill it at snowboarding. I definitely did not. But I also remembered something I'd forgotten I already knew, and once I started living it everything else fell into place. Read about how in this new post. Image credit to @mkphotos808 on Instagram <3
It's not often you get to participate in a world-history moment. This essay is a reflection on legacy, surfing, humanity, and the impact of Eddie Aikau on the surfing community.
It's so easy for us to see when we are using the wrong board. It's so easy for us to see what needs to change or what we need to do differently in surfing, but in the rest of our lives we're equally quick to blame ourselves. What if you have always perfectly fit life all along, but you just needed to start believing it?
There's always that one person in the line-up with a smile on their faces, and the one with a scowl. I realize in the line-up, and in life, you can choose to be whichever person in the lineup. At the end of the day, we're all in the ocean of life, but how we ride the waves is up to us.
Movement and moving, stillness and chaos-the metaphor can be too simple, but life also can be too.
Aggressive surfing can be empowering, and teach us how to improve. Like confrontation, we often believe it is only negative, but that isn't the case!
I found my greatest sustenance in the sea.
If a surfer catches a wave, and no one is around to see it, was it really that exciting...and other inquiries into external validation.
A post dedicated to the woman who taught me stoke, perseverance, courage, and laughter. Thanks for being the person who has always supported me pursuing my dreams.
What better way to celebrate than in the ocean?